The BONA TIDE 



AMERICAN 



Dhess * C UTT1NG * S^s™ 



CONSISTINC OF 6B ILLUSTRATIONS. 



918 Broadway, New York. 



Copyrighted 1 893. 







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The BONA TIDE 



AMERICAN 



Dress * G UTTING * Sy^ m , 



CONSISTING OF 65 ILLUSTRATIONS. 



918 Broadway, New York. 




Copyrighted ] h93. 



mm 



PASSAIC, N. J. 

press er tred e. eueasH. 

1893 






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JtTHiN the memory of the present generation, the art of moulding- clothes-tothe human shape has 
made enormous strides. Within the last few years, yes, even in to-day many first class establishments to 
insure a decent, respectable fitting, the party ordering has to be fitted not once only, but many times before 
satisfactory work is turned over to the wearer. This is not attributed to a lack of skill, but rather to the want 
of a perfect system of measurement necessary, to the complete setting of a garment (coat or dress waist in par- 
ticular) to the many eccentric points of the human body from the neck "to the waist . 

Dressmakers and tailors have to contend with what may be reduced to three distinct classes of forms 
viz: — the extra erect, the proportionate and the stooping forms. 

The variations between these distinct body outlines from the centre of attitude are so much as to destroy 
the perfect-ness of the so-called systems of scientific principles, thus entailing extra work, care and loss of time 
to insure a degree of style, and a perfection of fit compatible with the reputation of a first class custom house. 

That many have labored from year to year to perfect such a system is not to be denied, and that they 
believed they had achieved such success is best demonstrated by the many patents given to the public. That 
they have failed to reach such a pinnacle if best explained by the complaints of many modistes, dress-makers, 
in fact, cutters of any close fitting garments where a handsome fit is the all important feature, who state that 
they cannot by any of these patents teach apprentices who are not gifted with more than ordinary discerning 
power; they have given all a fair show, and only one ultimatum is the verdict, viz; they are good as far as 
they go, but there is something lacking. A system may be good but give bad results, if there is not a method 
suited to the system. The Bona Fide system is not a chart, or a set of scientific rules, but a new mode of 
measuring the human figure, a plan that embraces all the conformation of the shape as to quantity, extension 
or magnitude. All points work from a base such as a positive diameter, to a circumference; the measures are 
few; lengths and widths each taking its proper direction, giving proper quantity of material to cover the sur- 
face without twisting or dragging, and is as simple as a foot rule or a finger board on a road. 




The only tools required are a Tape Measure, a 
Tailor's Square, and the 6i Scale of Curves," 
shown above. 



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Plate i, Represents the Position of Square to draw the line A B to draft a Pattern with one 

Under-arm Piece. 

From the measurements given in this instruction hook, take a piece of paper 28 inches long and 22 
inches wide, then place the long side of the paper on the tahle in front of you, then place the Square as in 
figure 1, 2 inches from the edge of the paper, the short arm of the Square resting on the lower short, edge of the 
paper to the right, then draw a line against the edge of the long arm of the Square, from the top to the angle, 
dot and mark A at the end of the Square, dot and mark B at the angle; also dot. and mark C six inches up 
from B, on line A B, to locate for line C D. 



Fig. 2 Represents the position of the (square for drawing line.C D. 
Instructions for drawing line C D, 

Place the angle of the Square at C as in plate 2 (the long arm of the Square across the paper, and the 
short arm parallel with line A B) then draw a line across the paper along the lower edge of the long arm of the 
Square,, one inch less than half the bust measure, dot and mark D at the end of the line as in plate 2. 

Example: — If the bust measure is 34 inches, one half of 34 is 17 inches, you then draw the line one inch 
less, which is 16 inches, dot and mark D at that number on the Square. 

While Square is in position, count up on the short arm of the Square towards A, the number of inches 
for the length of side. 

Example: — If the length of side is 8 inches, mark E on line A B, at 8 inches to the left of C. 




Fig. 3 Represents the position of Square for drawing the line E F for half 

the bust measure. 

Place the angle of the Square at E, as in plate 3, the short arm of the Square towards A, and draw a 
line from E, along the lower edge of the long arm of the Square, to one-half of the bust measure, dot and mark 
F at the end of the line, as in plate 3. 

Example: — If the bust measure is 34 inches, half of 34 is 17 inches, then draw this line 17 inches. 




Fig. 4 Represents the position of the Square for drawing the middle line of the Back. 

To draw the middle line of the back, place Square as in plate 4, with the number of first length of back at F, the other, 
portion of the long arm of the Square touching D. 

Example:— If the first length of back is 7 inches, and the whole amount is 16 inches, then place the 7 of the long arm 
of the Square at F, the other portion of the Square touching D. Then draw aline from the angle of the Square, passing 
through F and D, to the desired length of the full measure of the back. 

' Example:— If the full measure of the back is 16 inches, dot and mark M at that number, on the long arm of the Square 

While Square is in Position, mark G at the angle of the Square, to locate for the top Curve of the back at the collar. 

Also, while Square is in position, mark 2 on the short arm of the Square at half of the first width of back. 

Example:— If the first width of back is 4^ inches, mar* 2 at Two and one quarter inches on the short arm of the Square. 

Also dot and mark I on line G- M, 3 inches down from G, to locate for half of second width of back. 




Fig. 5 Represents the position of Square for drawing half the Second 

width of Back, 

Place the angle of the Square at I as in plate 5, the long arm of the Squave in the direction of M, the 
short arm of square straight across on the paper, then draw a line from I along the upper edge of the short arm 
of the Square, as in plate 5, for half the second width of back. 

Example: — If the second width of hack is 12 inches, then draw the line I J six inches, dot and mark J 
at the end of the line. 




Fig. 6 Represents the position of Square for drawing half the third width 

of back. 

Measure up from F on line €r M one inch, dot and mark K, then place angle of Square atK , as in plate 
6, then draw a line from K along the upper edge of the short arm of Square, as in plate 6, for half the third 
width of the hack. 

Example: — If the third width of it is 13 inches, draw this line 6 1-2 inches, dot and mark L at the end 
of the line. Be sure that L is one inch up from the bust line, the same as K. 




Fig. 7 Represents the position of the Square for drawing half the fourth 

width of hack. 

Place the angle of the Square at M ae in Fig. 7, the long arm touching G and M, the short arm of 
Square turned towards .AB. Then draw a line along the short arm of Square, as in plate 7. 

Example: — If the fourth width of back is 5 inches, then draw the line 2 1-2 inches, dot and mark N at 
the end of the line. 




Fig. 8 Represents the position of the Square in locating H for the first number 

of the first balance measure. 

Place the angle of the Square at M as in Figure 8, the long arm of the Square touching 2, then dot and 
mark H at the first niimber of the first balance measure. 

Example: — If the first number of the first balance measure is 16 1-4 inches, then dot and mark H at 
that number on the Square, to locate for the back shoulder seam at the collar. 



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Fig. 9 Represents the position of the Square in locating O for the first number 

of the Second balance measure. 

Plaoe the angle of the Square at M, the short arm turned backwards, the edge of the long arm of the 
Square 3-4 of an inch to the right of J. 

Example: — If the first number of the second balance measure is 15 inches, dot and mark O at 15 inches 
on the Square. 




Fig, 10 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the first Curve 

of the back at the collar. 

Place the point A of the Ourve at Gr, the other portion of the cnr ve touching H, as in plate 10, then 
draw the curve from G to H, for the first width of half the back. 




Fig. 11 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the back shoulder 

seam, 

Place A of the Curve at H., the other portion of the Curve touching O, as in plate 11, than draw the 
curve from H to 1-2 an inch past O. 






Fig. 12 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the Back Arm Syce. 

Place the Curve as in plate 12, on the 10 on the curve at the shoulder line,the other portion of the Curve 
touching J and L, then draw curve from shoulder line through J to L. 

The Curve must always touch both J and L, when the 10 of Curve is on shoulder line. 




Fig. 13 Represents the positions of the Curve in measuring the distance from L 

to the shoulder line, 

Place the Curve as in plate 13, the point 7 of Curve on the shoulder line, the other portion of the Curve 
touching L, then count from the shoulder line to L, and divide this amount into parts, leaving the upper part 
1-4 of an inch less than the lower part, and at the dividing point dot and mark P. 

Example: — If the distance from the shoulder line to L is 5 inches, dot and mark P at 2 3-8 inches of 
the Curve, ajso measure to the left of M on the waist line M N, and divide into two parts, dot and mark Pi at 
the dividing point, leaving the portion from M to Pi 1-4 of an inoh less than from Pi to N. 




Fig. 14 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the Curve sep 
rating the side piece of back from the middle of the back 

above the waist line. 

.Place the Curve as in plate 14, with the point 2 of curve at P, the other portion of the Curve touching 
Pi, then draw the curve from P. to Pi. 



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Fig. 15 Bepresents the position of the Curve for drawing the front curve 

of side piece of back. 

Place the 8 that is on the small end of the Curve at L, the other portion of the curve touching N, as in 
plate 15, then draw the curve from L to N. 




Fig. 16 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the center line of 

back below the waist line. 

Place the L of Curve at M, the point 3 of the Curve touching the back line, and draw the Curve from 
M to the bottom of the paper dot and mark Mi at the end of the line, as in plate 16. 




Fig. 17 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing back Curre of side 

piece of back below the waist line. 

Measure one inch to the left of Mi, dot and mark Qr, then place the L of the Curve at Pi, the other 
portion of the Curve touching Qi, and draw the curve from Pi to Qi as in plate 17. 




Fig. 18 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the front Curve of 

the back below the waist line. 

Measure over from Qi one inch, dot and mark P2, place L of the ourve at Pi, the other portion of the 
Curve touching P2, then draw the curve from Pi to Pa, as in plate 18. 




Fig. 19 Represents the position of the Curye for drawing the front Curre of 
the side piece of the back below the waist line. 

Place the angle of the Square at Qi, and measure over towards the line A B, the amount that there is 
from M to N, dot and mark Ni. 

Then place the L of the curve at N, the other portion of the Curve touching Ni, and draw the curve 
from N to Ni, as in plate 19. 




Fig, 20 Represents the position of the Curve for taking out the fullness that is 

usually at the back Arm Scye. 

Place the point 2 of the Curve 1-2 an inch below P, as in plate 20, the other portion of the Curve touch- 
ing the back curve at the bust line, then draw the line from the point of the Curve to the bust line at F. 




Fig. 21 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the top Curve of 

the side piece of the hack. 

Place the 6 on the Curve, midway hetween L and Q, as in plate 21, and draw the curve from L to Q. 




Fig, 22 Represents the tape measure for locating li for the luighth of front 
dart } also S for locating highest point of front shoulder seam. 

Place the last number of first balance measure on the tape at C, keeping the lower numbers of Tape in 
the direction of A, as in plate 22. 

Example: — If the last number of the first balance measure is 35 then place 35 of the tape at C, then 
count on the tape in the direction of A, till you come to the measure of the heighth of front dart. 
If the heighth of front dart is 28, then dot and mark K on line A B, at 28 on the tape. 

Also dot and mark S on line A B, at the first number of the first balance measure on the Tape. 

Example: — If the first number of the first balance measure is 16^ inches, dot and mark S at that number 
on the Tape. Be sure and mark S between 16 and 17, instead of 15 and 16, as a great many pupils make 
that mistake. 




Fig. 23 Represents the position of the Square in locating Hi for the highest 
point of the opening" of the neck at the collar. 

Place the angle of the Square at S, as in plate 23, the long arm of the Square resting against line A B, dot 
and mark Hi at 2 1-4 inches on the short arm of the Square. Always measure 2 1-4 inches from S to Hi. 




Fig. 24 Represents the position of Square, locating T for the lowest point of the 

opening of the neck at the collar. 

Place the angle of the Square at C, as in Fig. 24, the long arm of Square in the direction of A. 
Example: — If the measure from neck to waist is 15 inches, dot end mark T on line A B at 15 inche 8 
n the Square. 




£SU>>3 



Fig. 25 Represents the position of Curve in drawing the Curve for the open- 
ing of the neck for the front portion of the waist. 



Place the 6 that is on round side of Curve, midway between T and Hi, and draw the curve from T to Hi, as in 



plate 25. 




Fig, 26 Represents the position of the Square to locate Tl for half the breast 

measure. 

Place the angle of the Square at T, as in plate 26; the long arm in the direction of C, then draw a line 
along the upper edge of the short arm of Square, as in plate 26, for half the breast measure. 

Example: — If the breast measure is 12 inches, draw this line 6 inches, dot and mark Ti at the end of 
the line. 




Fig. 27 Represents the position of the tape to locate Oi for the lowest point 
of the front shoulder seam at the sleeve. 

Example: — If the last number of the second balance measure is 34, and the first number of the balance 
measure is 15, then place 34 on the Tape at C, holding the Tape in the direction of Ti, keeping the tape -J of 
au inch to the le'lt of Ti, then dot and mark Oi at 15 on the Tape. Be sure and observe the same caution i n 
locating Oi as in locating S, in plate 22 — that is in getting Oi between the right numbers on the Tape. 



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Fig. 28 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the front 

shoulder seam. 

Place the 11 that is on the round side of the Curve at Hi, keeping the 15 on the Curve in the direction 
of Or, as in plate 28, and draw the curve from Hi to Oi, for the highest and lowest points of the front shoulder 
seam. 




Fig. 29 Represents the position of the Square for locating U for the front 

Curve of the front dart of the waist line. 

Place the angle of the Square at C, as in plate29, the short arm of the Square in the direction of D, 
the nmeasure from C on waist line towards D, 1 1-2 inches, and dot U. 




Fi£. 30 Represents the position of the Square for locating V for 
Curve of front dart, also W for front Curve of back dart 
and X for back Curve of back dart on waist line. 



back 



Place angle of Square at U, as in plate 30, the short arm of Square on waist line, in the direction of D. 
dot and mark V at 2 inches on the Square, also dot and mark W f of an inch back from V, also dot and 
mark X 2£ inches from W. 




Fig. 31 Represents the position of the Square for locating R1 and R2 for 

the heigh th of darts. 

Place the angle of the Square R, as in plate 31, the long arm of the Square against line A B, then meas- 
ure over on the short arm of the Square, 2 1-4 inches, and dot and mark Ri, then measure over 2 1-2 inches 
more, and dot and mark Ra. 




Fig. 32 Represents the position of the Square in locating the Curves of the 

darts below the waist line. 

Place the angle at B, as in plate 32, the long arm of the Square on line A B, dot and mark Ui 2 inehes 
from B, on the short arm of the Square, then dot and mark Vi 1 inch from Ui, also dot and mark Wi 1 1-2 
inches from Vi. 




Fig. 33 Represents the positions of Curve to locate for the Heigh th of back 

dart aboye the front dart 

Place point 3 of Curve half an inch below R online A B, while the 15 on the Curve is half an inch be- 
low the bust line, then draw a line on the upper edge of the Curve fron Rl to R2, as in plate 33. 




Fig. 34 Represents the position of the Curve in drawing the front Curve 

of the front dart above the waist line. 



Place the 15 of the Curve at Hi, the other portion of the Curve touching U, and draw the curve from 
Hi to U> as in plate 34. . 




Fig. 35 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the back Curve of 

the front dart above the waist line. 

Place the 5 of the Curve at Ri, the other portion of the Carve touching V, and draw the curve from Ri 
to V, as in plate 35. 




Fiff. 36 Represents the position of Curve in drawing the front Curve of the 

back dart above the waist line. 

Place the 15 of the Curve at R2, the other portion of the Curve touching W, and draw the curve from 
R2 to W, as in plate 36. 




Fig. 37 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the back Curve 
of the hack dart ahove and helow the waist line. 

Place thel-i of the Curve at X, the other portion of the Curve touchiug R2, as in plate 37, and draw 
curve from R2 down through X to the bottom of the paper. 




Fig. 38 Represents the position of the Curye in drawing the front Curve of 

the front dart below the waist line. 

Place the 4 of the Curve at U, the other portion of the Curve touching Ui, and draw the Curve frem U 
to Ui, ae in plate 38. 




Fig. 39 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the hack Curre of 

the front dart below the waist lin»e. 

Place L of the Curve at V, the other portion of the Curve touching Vi, as in plate 39, and draw the 
curve from Y to Vi. 




Fig. 40 Represents the position of the Curve in drawing the front 
Carve of the back dart below the waist line. 

Place the 4 of the Curve at W, the other portion of the Curve touching "Wi, as in plate 40, and draw the 
curve from W to Wi. 




Fig. 41 Represents the position of the Square in locating: 2 for half the 

waist measure. 

Measure the distance from C to U and from V to W, add these amounts together, which is 2 1-4 inches 
then place the 2 1-4 inches of the long arm of the Square at D, the same as half an inch is in plate 41, keep- 
ing the long arm of the Square turned towards C, and resting against line C D, dot and mark 2 at half the 
waist measure. 

Example: — If the waist measure is 23 inches, dot and mark 2 on line C D, at 11 1-2 inches on the Square. 

Also dot and mark 5 on the waist line at the front Curve of the side-piece of the hack, as in Fig. 41. 




Fig. 42 Represents the position of the Square in locating Y to D to divide 
the front portion of the waist from the under arm piece. 

Measure the diBtance between 2 and 5 on line C D. 

Example: — If the di6tance between 2 and 5 is 6-| inches, this divide mentally in two parts, leaving the 
fractions for the first part. Then place the angle of the Square at X, as in Fig 42, the short arm of the Square 
turned towards D. Count from X towards D on the arm of Square. Dot and mark Y at 3£ inches on line C 
D, leaving 3 inches of the amount, that is from 5 to 2 for the under arm piece. 




Fig, 43 Represents the position of the Square to locate Yl for the slope of 
the waist line of the front portion of the waist. 

Place the angle of the Square at Y, the short arm of the Square in the direction of D, measure up from 
Y on the long arm of the Square, 2 inches and dot and mark Yi, as in Fig 43. 










Fig. 44 Represents the position of the Square in measuring from F to Fi on 

the bust line. 

Place the angle of the the Square at F, as in plate 44, and measure on the bust line from F to Fi, and deduct 
from this amount half of the fourth width of hack — that is from M to N, and what is left divide in half mentally. 




Fig. 45 Represents the position of the Square for locating Z for the back 

Curve of the under arm piece. 

Place the angle of tlie Square at N, as in plate 45, the short arm of the Square turned towards C. Count 
on the upper edge of the short arm of the Square for half of the amount that is left from F to Fi, after de- 
ducting the width of the hack at the waist line, that is from M to N. 

Example: — [f the amount that is left from F to Fi is 3 1-2 inches after deducting the width of the 
back at the waist line, M N, then dot and mark Z from N at 1 3-4 inches on the short arm of the Square. 




Fig. 46 Represents the position of the Curve in drawing the back Curve of 

the under arm piece. 

Place the 4 of the Curve at Z, as in plate 46, the other portion of the Curve touching the front curve of 
the side piece of the back at L, and draw the curve from Z up to ^ an inch above L, and dot and mark Z2. 




Yi%. 4tH ^Represents the position of the Square for locating ZI for the front 

Curve of the under arm piece. 

Place the angle of the Square at 8, as in plate 47, the short arm of the Square turned towards C, then 
count on the short arm of the Square from 8 for what is left, of the distance from 2 to 5, dot and mark Zi 
on line C D, the other half being used for the front portion of the waist — that is from X to Y. 

Example: — If there is 3 inches left, dot and mark Zi at that number on the Square. 




Fig. 48 Represents the position of the Square for locating Y2 and Y3 to sep- 
arate the front portion of the waist from the under arm piece on the bust 

line. 

Place the angle of the Square at Zi as in plate 48, the short arm turned toward* D, the long arm touch- 
ing the bust line, dot and mark Y2 on the bust line at the edge of the Square to the left. Then dot and mark 
Y3 2 inches up from Y2. 






Fig, 49 Represents the position of the Curve in drawing the Curve for the 
front portion of the waist above the waist line. 

Place the 10 of the Curve at Yi, the other portion of the Curve touching Y3 as in plate 49, and draw 
the curve from Yi to Y3, 




Fig. 50 Represents the position of the Curve in drawing the Curve of the 

front arm scye. 

Place the 13 of the Curve near Ti, as in plate 50, the other parts of the Curve touching the shoulder line 
and the under-arm curve for the front portion of the waist, then draw the curve from the shoulder line to Y3. 




Fig. 51 Represents the position of the Curve in drawing the front Curve of 

the under arm piece above the waist line. 

Place the L of the Curve atZi, the other portion of the Curve touching Y2, as in plate 51, th«n 
draw the Curve from Zi to Y2. 




Fig. 52 Represents the position of the Curve in drawing the top Curve of 

the under arm piece. 

Place the 6 of the Curve, midway between Ya and Z2 as in plate 52 and draw the Curve from Y2 to Z* 




Fig. 53 Represents the position of the Square in locating Y4 for the first 
hip measure t that is from the hem to the hack Curve of the front por- 
tion of the waist. 

Measure the distance from B to Ui, and from Vi to Wi. Add these two amounts together, which 
is 3 1-2 inches, in a waist with one under arm piece. Now place the 3 1-2 inches of the Square on the back 
curve of the back dart, 5 inches down from the waist line, with the 6 of the short arm of the Square resting on 
line C D, then count from the angle of the long arm of the Square, until you come to the first hip measure. 

Example : — If the first hip measure is 8 inches, that is from the hem in the front to the hip joint, then 
dot and mark Y4 at the eight inches, on the long arm of the Square. 







Fig. 54 Represents the position of the Curve to draw the hip Curve of the 

front portion of the waist. 

Place point 2 of the Curve at Yi, the other portion of the Curve touching Y4, as in plate 54, 
draw the curve from Yi through Y4, to the bottom of the paper. 




Fig. 55 Represents the position of the Square in locating 3 midway be- 
tween 8 and Zl. Also to locate 4, 4 1-2 inches down from the 

waist line. 

Ivleasurethe distance between 8 and Zi, and divide this amount in half, and at the dividing point mark 
3, then place the angle of the Square 3, the short arm of the Square turned towards C, draw a line 4£ inches 
down from 3, towards the bottom of paper, dot and mark 4, as in plate 55. 

To take out the fullness that is usually at the back arm scye where the front curve of the side piece of 
the back, and the back carve of the under arm piece joins together. Mark a dot \ inch from Z2 on top curve 
of under arm piece. Then plaoe 2 that is near the word " hip " of Curve, at dot, the 5 of curve touching the 
back of curve of under arm piece, then draw a Curve from dot to 5 of curve. 




Fig. 56 Represents the position of the Square for locating 6 for the back Curve 
of the under arm piece, also 5 for the front Curve of the under arm piece 

below the waist line. 

If the first hip measure is 8 inches, and the whole amount is 14 inches, and you deduct the eight 
inches belonging to the front portion of the waist, that is from the hem the first hip joint from the 14 
inches p that leaves 6 inches for the hip portion of the under-arm piece. Now place half of 6 inches? 
which is 3 inches, at 4, and dot and mark 6 at the angle of the Square, also dot and mark 5 at 6 
inches on the Square. 




Fig. 57 .Represents the position of the Curve to draw the back Curve of 

the under arm piece below the waist line. 

Place the 2 at the word "hips" of Curve at Z, the other portion of Curve touching 6, draw the 
curve from Z, through 6 to the hottom of the paper, as in plate 57. 




Fig. 58 Represents the position of the Curve for drawing the front Cnrve of 

the under arm piece below the waist line. 

Place the word " hip " of the Curve at Zi, the other portion of the Curve touching 5, and draw 
the curve from Zi through 5 to the bottom of the paper, as in plate 58, 




Fig, 59 Represents the position of the Curve in drawing the Curve for 

the slope of the front portion of the waist. 

Place the 15 of the Curve at Yi, the other portion of the Curve touching X, and draw the ciirs r e from 
Yi to X, as in plate 59. 




Fig. 60 Represents the position of the Curve to draw the swell of the bust 

from the waist line to R3. 

Measure out from R towards the edge of paper, one inch, and dot and mark E3, then place the 10 of 
Curve at C, the other portion of Curve touching R3, and draw the curve from C to R3. 




Fig. 61 Represents the position ot the Curve to draw the swell from TtoK3. 

Place the 4 of the Curve at T, the other portion of Curve touching R3, and draw the curve from T to R 3 - 



Instruction for transfering the draft to the lining. 

Double the lining two selvedge edges together. (Then place) A B one inch from edge of lining Pin 
draft and lining to tracing- board, and take tracing wheel and trace from C to X and from X to Ti for the waist 
line. Next trace from B through C to R3 and from R3 to T for the swell of the front of the waist. Then 
trace from T to Hi for the opening of the neck. Next trace from Ui through U to Ri and from Vi -through Y 
to Ri for the front and back curves of the front dart. Next trace from Wi through ~W to R2 and from R2 
through X to the bottom of the paper for the front and back curves of the back dart. Next trace from the bot- 
tom of paper through Y4 Yi Y3, the underarm curve of the front portion of the waist. Next trace from Y3 
through Ti to curve Hi to curve Hi Oi for the front arm scye. Also trace from Oi to Hi for the front shoulder 
seam. Then lift up draft and cut lining, allowing half an inch for the underarm curve of the front portion 
of the waist ; but the shoulder seam which must be three-quarters of an inch, and the neck and also the 
arm scye must be one quarter of an inch. Next place line M N crosswise on the lining with line G M rest- 
ing lengthwise straight on the lining. Trace from Pi to M, and on the back line from Mi through M to G. 
Then trace from P2 through Pi to P, and from P to O, from O to H, from H to G for the curves of the back 
portion of the waist. Lift draft and allow one half inch on all seams but the shoulder seam, which must be three 
quarters of an inch,andthe arm scye and neck seams must be one quarter of an inch. Next get the side body of 
the back. Place line M N crosswise on the lining and trace from N to Pi. Then trace from Qi through Pi 
to Q, and from Ni through N to L and from L to Q for the front and back curves of the side body. Lift draft 
and allow one half inch on all seams but the arm scye from L to Q, which must be one quarter of an inch. 
Next get the underarm piece. Place Zi crosswise on the lining, and trace from Zi to the curve Z Z2 for the 
waist line. Trace line through Zi to Y2 and from Y2 to Z2 from Z2 through Z and 6 to the bottom of the 
paper. Lift draft and allow one-half inch on all seams but the arm scye from Y2 to Z 2 which must be one 
quarter of an inch. 




Diagram No. 1 Represents all the lines and curves that are used in 
drafting a basque pattern with one under arm piece by the " Bona Fide 
American System." 



Copyright 1898 by Mary A. Taylor . 




P^rJ^et ^leeve. 




or more than twenty years the sleeve problem has been a prominent theme and has excited many 
different and contrary opinions and conflicting sentiments among all pursueing the art of 
Dress Making. 

One of the m^st important parts of any dress is the sleeve, . 

The comfort and fit of the garment depends so largely on the sleeve that there is a universal demand 
for a system that can be nsed with certainty to draft a perfect fitting sleeve pattern. 

Such an invention is found in the the BONA FIDE DRESS CUTTING SYSTEM herewith presented and 
giving to the public, this is a New Method of drafting sleeve patterns from actual measurements of the arm 
and entirely independent of any guess-work or experiment. 

This system embraces all the conformity of the shape as to quanity or extension and all parts are marked 
out from a bass of positive diameters to the circumferences of the arm. The measures are few and easily taken 
and are distinguished features of this new method of drafting patterns with the BONA FIDE SYSTEM is that 



a perfect sleeve pattern can be drafted from actual measurements for the largest woman or the smallest doll 
in less than 3 minutes. 

Instructions for using the Square and Curve to draw a Sleeve pattern by the Bona Fide System of Draft- 
ing patterns. 

FIRST. 

First draw a line AB| inch from edge of paper. Mark A at the end of the line to the left. 

SECOND. 

Then mark B at the end of the line to the right. 

THIRD. 

Then mark C on line A B 13 inches up from B. 

FOURTH. 

Now place brass end of Square at C the short arm cross-wise on the paper. Mark D 2 inches to the right 
of C to locate for the inside Curves of the under and upper Sleeve at the hollow of the arm. 

FIFTH. 

Next locate for the outside Curve of the under Sleeve at the Elbow. Place brass end of Square at D the 
short arm of Square straight cross-wise on the paper. Mark E at ^ inch less than half the third measure 
around the arm. 

Example: — If the third measure is 12 inches, half of 12 inches is 6 inches. Then mark E at 5^ inches on 
the short arm of the Square. Next mark F 1^ inches down from E. 

SIXTH. 

Next mark G ih inches to the right of F for the outside Curve of the upper Sleeve at the Elbow. 

SEVENTH. 

Now place the brass end of Square at D the other portion of long arm of Square in the direction of A with 
the desired number of the measure from the hollow of the arm to the Arm Scye, resting on line A B. 

Example: — If the measure of the Sleeve from the hollow of the arm to the Arm Scye is 8| inches, mark 
H on line A B at that number on the long arm of the Square. 

EIGHTH. 

To locate the inside Curves of the upper and under Sleeve at the wrist. Place the number of the meas- 
ure from H to D. 

Example: — If the distance from H to D is 8| inches, place the 8| inches of the long arm of the Square 
at D the other portion of the long arm in the direction of B. Then mark I at the edge of the paper at the 
desired number of inches of the inside measure of the Sleeve. 

Example: — If the inside measure of the arm, that is from the Arm Scye to the wrist, is 17 inches, then 
mark I on the edge of the paper, at 17 inches on the Square, while the 8| of the long arm of the Square is 
resting on D . 



NINTH. 

Then mark J \ of an inch inside of line A B the same distance from D as I is from D, to locate for the 
inside Curve of the under Sleeve at the wrist. 

TENTH. 

To locate for the outside Curve of the tinder Sleeve at the Arm Scye. Mark K to the right of H the 
same distance from line A B as E is from D. 

Example: — If the distance from D to E is 5 \ inches, then mark K 5^ inches from H, Then mark L 2 
inches up from K. 

ELEVENTH. 

To locate for the Back Curve of the upper Sleeve at the Arm Scye. Place the number of inches that is 
from H to K on the long arm of the Square to the left of H. Then count from the brass end of Square to ^ 
inch more than the first measure of the arm. 

Example: — If the first measure of the Arm is 15 inches, then mark M at the 15 J inches on the Square ; 
also mark N 2 inches up from M. 

TWELFTH. 

To get the length of Sleeve from Shoulder to Elbow. Place angle of Square at F the long arm of 
Square touching L and count on long arm the desired number of inches for the measure from Elbow to Shoul- 
der, and mark O. 

Example: — If the first length of arm is 16^ inches from Elbow to Shoulder, mark O at that number on 
the long arm of Square. 

THIRTEENTH 

To locate P and Q for the outside Curves of the under and upper Sleeve at the Wrist. Place the 1^ 
inches of the short arm of Square at J the long arm of Square touching M. 

FOURTEENTH. 

Then Count on the short arm of Square from the brass end to the desired number of inches of half the 
Hand measure, and mark P at that number of the Square for the outside Curves of the under Sleeve. Then 
mark Q i| inches outside of P for the outside Curve of the upper Sleeve. 

FIFTEENTH. 

Instruction for using the Curve to draw the inside and outside Curves of the under and upper Sleeve from 
the hollow of the Arm to the Arm Scye Place the 15 of Curve at D, small point of Curve to the right. The 
11 of Curve in direction of H. Then draw Curve from D to H for the inside and outside Curve from the 
Arm Scye to the hollow of the Arm . 

SIXTEENTH. 

To get the outside Curves of the under and upper Sleeve above the Elbow. Place the point 3 of Curve 
at L the 11 in the direction of E. The round side touching F. Draw from L to F for the outside Curve of 
of the under Arm Sleeve from the Elbow to the Arm Scye. 



SEVENTEENTH. 

Place same point 3 of Curve at N the 1 1 in the direction of G the round side of Curve touching G. Draw 
from N to G for the Back Curve of the upper Sleeve above the Elbow. 

EIGHTEENTH. 

Now place 5 of Curve small point in the direction of H with the 5 on round side of Curve on D the other 
portion of Curve touching I. Then draw from D to I for the inside Curve for the upper Sleeve from the 
hollow of the Arm to the Wrist. 

NINETEENTH. 

Then place same 5 at F with the 14 of Curve in the direction of P The edge of Curve touching P. Draw 
Curve from F to P for the Back Curve of the under Sleeve from the Elbow to the Wrist. 

TWENTY. 

Then place same 5 at G the other portion of Curve touching Q. Now draw from G to Q for the Back 
Curve o-f the upper Sleeve from the Elbow to the Wrist. 

TWENTY-ONE. 

Now put A of point of Curve at D with the 14 of Curve in direction of I the edge of Curve touching J. 
Now draw Curve from D to J for the inside seam of the under Sleeve from the hollow of the Arm to the Wrist 

TWENTY-TWO. 

To get the top portion of the upper Sleeve at the Arm Scye from H to N, Place 6 of Curve at O. word 
Back Arm in direction of H the round portion of Curve touching H. Draw from H to O for the front portion 
of round top of Sleeve. 

TWENTY-THREE. 

Then turn Curve over, and put point of brass end farthest away from A at O. The A in direction of line 
A B. The 13 of Curve in direction of N. Draw line from O to N for the round portion of the upper Sleeve 
at the Arm Scye. 

TWENTY-FOUR. 

Now turn Curve over with 6 midway between L and H, word neck in direction of L. Draw Curve from 
H to L for the top Curve of the under Arm Sleeve at the Arm Scye. 

TWENTY-FIVE. 

To get the line from I to P, place the angle of the Square at I, the other portion of the Square touching 
P. Draw the line from I to P, then measure up from Q, £ of an inch, and dot. Then draw a line from P to do 




CJgpjFrfcrftt ISO?, Uy Marv A. Taylor, 



Diagram No 2 Represents a basque pattern with two under arm pieces, what 

is called a 13 seam waist, and is one fourth of a pattern of a 

42 inch bust measure, and 29 inch waist measure. 

9 

We will give the corresponding- measures which are four times the lengths and widths of the meas- 
ures of this diagram. 

i — The first is the waist measures which is 29 inches. 

2 — Second, the length of side 8 inches. 

3 — Third, bust measune, 42 inches. 

4 — Fourth, the first length of back, 7 inches, and the full measure of back 16.^. 

5 — First width of back is 4^ inches. 

6 — Second width of back is 14 inches. 

7 — Third width of back is 15 inches. 

8 — The fourth of back is 6h inches. 

9 — The first number of the first balance measure is i6| inches. 
10 — The second number of the first balance measure is 29 inches. 
11 — The last number of the first balance measure is 36 inches 
12 — The first number of the second balance measure is 15 1-2 inches. 
13 — The last number of the second balance measure is 35 inches 
14 — From neck to waist is 14S inches. 

15 — Breast measure is 14 inches. 

16 — First hip measure is 10 inches. 

17 — The full hip measure is 20 inches. 

How to enlarge a pattern from the measures of this Diagram to a 42 inch bust measure, and a 29 inch 
waist measure. 

1 — Draw the line A B, the full length of the Square. 

2 — Dot and mark C 6 inches from B, instead of 1 1-2. 

3 — Draw the line C D, 20 inches, instead of 5 inches. 

4 — Also mark E on line A B, 8 inches from C instead of 2 inches. 

5 — Then draw the bust line from E to F 21 inches, instead of 5 1-4. 

6 — Also place 7 on the Square at F instead of 1 3-4 inches. 



7 — Then draw the whole length of back 16 1-2 inches instead of 4 1-8 inches. 

8 — Also mark 2 at 2 1-2 inches, instead of 5-8 of an inch. 

9 — Mark I 3 inches'down from G, instead of 3-4 of an inch. 
10 — Then mark J 7 inches from I, instead of 1 3-4 inches. 
11 — Mark K 1-2 an inch up from F instead of 1-8 of an inch. 
• 12 — Mark L 7 1-2 inches from K, instead of 1 7-8 inches. 

13 — Mark N from M 3 1-4 inches, instead of 13-16 of an inch. 
14 — Mark Pi 1 1-4 inches from M, instead of 3-8 of an inch as in Diagram. 
15 — Mark H 16 3-4 inches from M, instead of 4 3-16 inches. 

16 — Also mark O 15 1-2 inches from M, instead of 3 7-8 inches. Use the same portion of the Curve 
for back as in Diagram No. 1. 

17 — Mark Mi Qi P2 Ni four times the distance from each other as there "is in Diagram No. 2 . 
18 — To obtain the second and first numbers of the first balance measure, place 36 of the tape measure 
at C, instead of 9. 

19 — Mark R on line A B, at 29 on the tape, instead of at 7 1-4 inches 

20 — Also mark S at 16 3-4 inches on the tape, instead of 4 3-16 inches. 

21 — Also mark Hi at 2 1-4 inches on the short arm of the Square, instead of 1-2 1-16 of an inch. 

22 — Also mark T, 14 1-2 inches from C, instead of 3 5-8 inches." 

23 — Also mark Ti 7 inches from T, instead of 1 3-4 inches. 
24 — To obtain the first number of the second balance measure, place the 35 of the tape on C, instead 
of 8 3-4 inches. Then count on the tape until you come to 15 1-2 instead of 3-78 inches, and mark Oi. 
Use the same portion of the Curve for neck and shoulder curves as in Diagram No. 1. 

25 — To locate for the darts on waist line, mark U, 2 inches from C instead of 1-2 an inch, 

26 — Mark V 2 inches from U instead of 1-2 inch. 

27 — Mark W, 1 inch from V instead of 1-4 an inch. 

28 — Mark X 2 1-2 inches from W instead of 5-8 of an inch. 

29 — To get the top of darts, mark RI, 2 1-2 inches from R instead of 5-8 of an inch. 

30 Mark R2, 2 1-2 inches from Ri, instead of 5-8 of an inch. 

31 Mark Ui, 2 1-2 inches from B instead of 5-8 of an inch. 

32 Mark Vi, 1 inch from Ui instead of 1-4 of an inch. 

33 Mark Wi 1 3-4 inches from Vi, instead of 7-16 of an inch. 

34 MarkXi from B, the same distance as X is from C, 

3c Use the same portion of the Curve, as in drawing a Pattern with one under Arm piece — ex- 
cept from X to Xi. Use the same 14 from X to R2. Then use the L of Curve from X to Xi. 

36 To get half the waist measure, throw off 3 inches at D instead of 3-4 of an inch. 

37 This being the amount that there is from C and U and from V to W, mark 2 at T4 1-2 inohes on 

the Square, half of a 29 waist measure, then mark 5 at front Curve of the side piece of the back. 



38 — Now divide from 2 to 5 in three parts instead of two parts. Putting the fractions to the front 
portion of the waist. 

Example: — If the distance between 2 and 5 is 8 inches, then mark Y towards D on line C D, 3 inches 
from X. 

39 — Then dot and mark Yi, 2 inches up from Y. 

40 — To get Z, measure the width of the back on the bust line the same as in Diagram No 1. Also 
draw Curves Z Z2 the same as in Pattern with one under arm piece. 

41 — Mark Fi at front Curves of side piece of back. Now mark Y2 on the bust line midway between 
R2 of the back dart, and Fi as in Diagram. 

42 — Then mark small A midway between Y2 and Fi . 

43 — -Then mark 8 on line C D as in Diagram. 

44 — Then mark Zi 2 1-2 inches to the left of 8, instead of 5-8 as in Diagram, to locate for the front 
Curve of the back under arm piece. 

45 — How to obtain Z3 and Z4. Place the short arm of the Square on line C D turned towards D, the 
outside edge of the long arm touchiug Y2, to the right of Y2. Then mark Z3 at the brass end of the Square 
on line C D to locate for the front curve of the front under arm piece. 

46 — Also mark Z4 towards 8, on line C D, at 2 1-2 inches from Z3, to locate for the back Curve of the 
front under arm piece. 

47 — Also mark Y3 2 inches up from Y2. 

48 — Now draw a Curve from Yi to Y3, the same as in single under arm piece. 

49 — Also draw a Curve from Z3 to Y2, with the L of Curve at Z3, the other portion of Curve touching 
Y2, draw the curve from Z3 to Y2. 

50 — Then place the same L of Curve at Zi, the other portion of the Curve touching small a. Draw 
the Curve from Zi to small a. 

51 — Then turn Curve over, and place the 4 of Curve at Z4, the other portion of Curve touching small 
a. Draw Curve from Z4 to small a. for the back Curve of the front under arm piece. 

51 — To take out the fullness, use the 2 and 5 of Curve, the same as in Fig. No t. 

52 — To draw the hip Curve of the front portion of the waist, measure from B to Ui and from Vi to 
Wi for all waists 27 inches and over, this amount is 4 1-4 inches, instead of 1 1-16 inches as in Diagram. 
Now place the 4 1-4 of the Square on the Curve 5 inches down from the waist line. Then mark Y4 at 10 
inches on the Square, then place point 2 of the Curve at Yi, the other portion of the Curve touching Y4. 
Draw Curve from Yi through Y4 to bottom of paper. 

53 — Next mark 4 midway between Z3 and Z4 and mark U. Then draw aline 4 1-2 inches down from 
4 instead of 1 1-8 inches. Then place 1-4 of the 10 inches that is left from the front portion of the hip 
measure at 4. Use the Square the same as in Diagram No. 1. Mark n at Brass end of Square. 

54 — Also mark 10 at 5 inches on Square, this amount being half of the 10 inches that is left from the 
front hip measure. 



Example: — If the hip measure is to inches, and 10 is. taken for the front portion of the waist, then 
there is 10 inches left to be divided in half ; now from 10 to n is one half of the 10 inches that is left from 
the whole amount. 

55 — To draw the Curve from Z4, to 1 1 use the 2 of Curve that is near the word hips at Z4, the other 
portion of Curve touching- 11. Draw from Z4 through 11 to the bottom of the paper. 

56 — Then turn the Curve over and place the word hips of the Curve at 23 the other portion of the 
Curve touching 10 then draw the Curve from Z3 through 10 to the bottom of the paper. 

57— Now mark 3 midway between Zi and 8 then draw aline 4 1-2 inches down from 3 and mark 4 at 
the end of the line. 

58 — Place half of the balance of what is left of the 10 inches which is 5 inches at 4. 
Example: — If the balance is 5 inches then place the 2 1-2 inches of the Square at 4 and mark 12 at the 
angle of the Square. 

59 — Also mark 13 at 5 inches of the Square. 

60 — Use the same portion of Curve from 2 to 13 as from Z4 to n; also use the same portion of Curve 
f rom Zi to 12 as from Z3 to. 10. 

61 — Curves Y2, Z3, and 10 is the front Curve of the under arm piece that joins Y3, Yi, and Y4. 

62 — Also Z4 and Zi joins at the waist line. Z4 being the back Curves of the front under arm piece and 
Zi is the front Curve of the back under arm piece. 

63 — Get the swell of the bust the same as in Diagram No. 1. 




Copyright lRflS, by Mary a. Tmior. 



Diagram No. 3 Represents the outlines of a Draft of a Princess Pattern. 

Lines A B G M and the four widths of the back, also the two back balance measures, are obtained 
the same as in Diagram No. i. Also Qi and P2 is drawn 3 inches below waistline. But line C D is drawn 
8 inches up from B instead of 6 inches. 

Line Ci Di is drawn 7 inches up from B, and is 7 inches long. To get E for the length of side, 
measure from Ci instead of C. Mark E from Ci \ an inch more than the length of side. 

Exemple: — If the length of side is 8 inches, then mark E from Ci 8 1-2 inches. Then draw the line 
E F the same as in Diagram No. 1. 

To get the front balance measure, place the last number of the balance measures at Ci, instead of C. 

Locate U V W and X on line Ci Di as in Diagram No. 3. Measure the distance from Ci to U, accord- 
ing to the size of waist measure. 

Example: — If the waist measure is over 27 inches, mark U 2 inches from Ci, and if from 24 to 27 
inches, mark U 1 3-4 inches from Ci. All waists 24 inches and under, mark U 1 1-2 inches fromCi. And 
for all waists mark V 1 1-2 inches from U. Also mark X 1 3-4 inches from W. But the distance between V 
and W is allowed according to the size of waist measure, (the same as in Basque Pattern.) 

To locate Ui and Vi for the bottom of darts, mark Ui 4 inches down from line O Di, the same dis- 
tance from line A B as Ri is from line A B. Then mark Vi the same distance from Ui as R2 is from Ri. 

The front curve of the front dart, and the front curve of the back dart, are drawn the same as in 
Diagram No. 1. But the back curve of the back dart is drawn the same as the back curve of the front dart. 
Use the same 15 and 5,ialso the same 4 and L as in Diagram No. 1. 

To get the hip measure, mark Bi 2 inches up from B. Then place the brass end of the Square at Bi 
the long arm turned towards Mi, the short arm resting online A B. Then count from brass end of Square 
to the full hip measure. 

Example: — If the full hip measure is 15 inches, then mark Z4, at 15 on the long arm of the Square. 

To separate the front portion of the waist from the under arm piece above and 4 inches below the 
waist line, place the brass end of the Square at Vi, the long arm touching Z4. Then mark Y4 at half the 
distance between Vi and Z4. Now place the brass end of Square at Y4. the long arm touching the bust 
line E F. Then draw a straight line from Y4, to thebust line as in Diagram No. 3. Next get half the 
waist measure, and mark 2, also mark 5 as in Diagram No. 3. Also mark 6 at the back dart on waist line 
as in Diagram No. 3. Now measure from 6 towards D, and mark Y at half the number of inches that 
is between 2 and 5. Then markYi on the bust line, midway between E and F. Now mark Zi on line C D 
3-4 of an inch to the right of the straight line. Now mark 3 from Zi the same distance as Y is from 6. 

Now on the bust line, measure from E towards F, and mark 7 at 1-2 an inch less than there is from 
C to 3. Now mark Z2 1 3-4 inches up from 7. Now mark a dot on bust line at the front curve of the side 
piece of the back, as in Diagram No. 3. Now measure from Yi to the dot, then mark Z3 to the left of 7 
the same number of inches as there is from Yi to the dot. Now mark Y2 3-4 of an inch to the right of Yi . 
Also mark A 3-4 of an inch to the left of Z3 on the bust line. Next mark Y3 3-4 of an inch to the right of Y 



To draw the Curve of the front portion of the waist, use the 12 that is near small 10 at Y and Yi, the 
other portion of Curve touching Yi and Y2. Then draw Curves from Y to Yi and from Y3 to Ya. To 
draw the hip Curves at the front portion of the waist, place point 2 of Curve at Y the other portion touch- 
ing Y4. Then draw from Y to Y4. Then place the same point of Curve 2 at Y3 the other portion of Curve 
touching V4. Then draw from Y3 to V4. 

To get the front Curves of the under arm piece, place the 12 that is on the Curve at Zi the other por- 
tion of Curve touching Z3. Then draw the Curve from Zi to Z3. Now place the same 12 on the waist line 
where the straight line crosses the waist line, the other portion of the Curve touching 8. Then draw from 
waistline to 8. 

To get the back Curve of^the under arm piece from Zto opposite Za, mark Z below 3 the same distance 
from the waist line as N is from waist line. Then place the 4of Curve at Z the other portion of Curve touch- 
ing dot 7. Draw Curve from Z through dot 7 to opposite Za. 

To get the top Curve of said piece, use the same portion of Curve as in Diagram No. 1. 

Draw front arm scye from Y2 through Ti to the shoulder line. 

To get the back hip Curves mark a dot 1 inch outside of Z4. Then place 3 that is at the word hips, 
at Z the other portion of Curve touching dot. Then draw Curve from Z through dot to the bottom of the 
paper. 

The swell is obtained the same as in Diagram No. 1. 




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